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Pre Anniversary F/P Shutter release

 
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rsweatt



Joined: 07 Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 10:47 pm    Post subject: Pre Anniversary F/P Shutter release Reply with quote

I did a search but can't find what I want to know (perhaps you didn't search hard enough).

Is the "L" shaped lever on the side of the camera, behind the rangefinder, the only mechanism for tripping the F/P shutter? If so, I know it can be tripped via cable release, as I have attached a hand bracket with a cable release mounted, but I am finding that to not be an ideal option for handheld shooting. The cable release seems to take a good amount of thumb pressure and travel to trip the shutter, making me worry about camera shake as I am pushing on it. I would rather trip by just pulling the lever but the tab is so close to the rangefinder making it rather less "user-friendly" as the gap between the small tab and the rangefinder is only about 1/2".

So, I was wondering if, back in the day, the users of the old Speeds used another method to trip the F/P shutter? Has anyone ever made or came up with some sort of attachment (dare I say - modification) to the F/P shutter release making it easier to access and more comfortable / intuitive?
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3202
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Pre Anny pictured in the currently adjacent post confirms the same shutter and trip assembly as is in the Anniversary Speed Graphic.

I would try a different cable release. Cable release with a 3/4 inch plunger movement are harder to find and ones with both a long plunger movement and short threaded end may be the ticket you are looking for.
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Jim C.



Joined: 18 Feb 2011
Posts: 58

PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 3:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have overly tight beds or perhaps pinched the cable release
between something ?
Does the cable release have a lock that you inadvertently locked ?

Tripping the FPS with a cable release does require a little more
thumb pressure but not excessively so.
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rsweatt



Joined: 07 Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim, no, the cable release is unrestricted. And as you said, tripping the FPS does take a little more pressure but it is very do-able. I am just not used to the pressure / travel combination when compared to all my large format leaf shutters - so - I was just wondering if there was another option other than using a cable release.
The FPS trip lever (M lever?) on my camera is formed at exactly a 90 degree angle, which makes it run parallel to the back of the rangefinder. I did see a picture somewhere in another post of someone else's camera, and their's was formed at less than 90 degrees, which brought the finger tab out a little more giving more room between the rangefinder and the finger tab. I may just see if I can somehow acquire another trip lever. I really would prefer to just use that with my right hand, rather than a cable release.
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Jim C.



Joined: 18 Feb 2011
Posts: 58

PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you post a picture looking for a FPS lever arm on the Large Format Photography forum ?
I seem to have lost track of that thread but from the pictures in that thread on LFPF it looked like
the rangefinder was set too far back, could it be that yours has been shifted too far back ?
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rsweatt



Joined: 07 Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jim, yes, that was me. No, I don't think it is possible that my rangefinder is misplaced. If it was moved any farther forward it would interfere with the focus knob when the camera is folded shut. I think the FPS trip levers on the early Speeds must have just been made as mine is because on later models, like the Anniversary models I believe, the lever bends slightly to the rear of the camera, away from the rangefinder.

So, what I have done (since I have not had any offers) is cut a small section out of my lever and bend it back a few mm's. It now gives me plenty of room to get my finger in there. I just need to solder the cut section for strength and paint it black
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Jim C.



Joined: 18 Feb 2011
Posts: 58

PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Little parts like that are going to far and few, be careful taking the lever off,
there is a thick threaded washer that the screw threads into.
I noticed my lever's screw wasn't OEM, and decided to see if
the previous owner decided to jam a wood screw in there, backed the screw out
( it was a machine screw thankfully ) and heard a tiny clink.....
Kind of late advice since you must have taken the lever off to modify it.

If you're handy you could fashion a new lever out of brass or steel, the broached
hole could be done with some filing.
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rsweatt



Joined: 07 Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 2:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good news / bad news...I did take my lever off by removing the bolt. Apparently the end of the bolt that screws into the threaded washer you mention, snapped off as I was removing it. So, I have a very short bolt with damaged threads that is unable to tighten down enough to secure the FPS trip lever. My options seem to be - re tap new threads and find a suitable larger bolt - or - just epoxy the lever back on.

Your thoughts?
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Jim C.



Joined: 18 Feb 2011
Posts: 58

PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 3:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsweatt wrote:
Good news / bad news...I did take my lever off by removing the bolt. Apparently the end of the bolt that screws into the threaded washer you mention, snapped off as I was removing it. So, I have a very short bolt with damaged threads that is unable to tighten down enough to secure the FPS trip lever. My options seem to be - re tap new threads and find a suitable larger bolt - or - just epoxy the lever back on.

Your thoughts?


I assume that the broken end of the screw that's in the washer is too short to
back out ? if there is enough, then soak it in some PB Blaster and
you'll need to back it out from the peened end since from what I gather the
screw was peened to prevent the washer falling off, mine wasn't so I can
see why my FPS curtain is in great condition, must have had it serviced
and the tech lost the original screw.

I wouldn't enlarge it, like I said in my other post here the screw is a 2-56 thread x .375 long,
McMaster will have machine screws that size but not in the same style,
with the extra wide truss head. Binding head is the what i have on hand and used on mine till
I can locate a close duplicate.
The washer is just a thick brass one that can be fabricated out of brass rod
and a 2-56 tap if you have access to a lathe if that detail is important,
otherwise a 2-56 nut with some Loctite red threadlocker should work.
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3202
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 3:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cameras of this era had the screws staked to prevent them from coming loose and falling out.
Staking is a process of expanding the screw tip with a punch or press once it is installed resulting in the tip of the screw being .010 larger than the nut or threaded plate thread it was screwed into.

If you were to remove the wind plate you might be able to unscrew the broken portion from the plate and make a new screw for the lever.
See my post (last) in http://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=6493 and picture 5 in post http://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=6489
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rsweatt



Joined: 07 Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I remove the wind plate, are springs, bearings, and all sorts of paraphernalia going to fly out and immediately burrow deep into the carpet so I can't find them? In other words, what is the down-side of removing the wind plate? As my Dad always says - "Maintenance begets maintenance".
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Jim C.



Joined: 18 Feb 2011
Posts: 58

PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsweatt wrote:
If I remove the wind plate, are springs, bearings, and all sorts of paraphernalia going to fly out and immediately burrow deep into the carpet so I can't find them? In other words, what is the down-side of removing the wind plate? As my Dad always says - "Maintenance begets maintenance".


No, the wind plate mechanics are all one unit, the only thing you have to worry about is the FPS, if you do decide to remove the wind plate -

Make sure that the shutter is at O or less
drop the spring tension to 1 or lower
remove the back
mark a reference point on the shutter cloth with a pencil
remove the screws holding the wind plate, you may have to wiggle it a bit
to disengage the FPS upper roller gear and shaft.

Assembly is reverse, but use the pencil mark you made on the shutter cloth
to reengauge the gear.

Some ref pictures of the mech the instructions are quoted from the repair manual -
http://lommen9.home.xs4all.nl/anniversary/page%201.html
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rsweatt



Joined: 07 Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the instructions Jim. Will proceed with caution.
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3202
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Pre Anniversary is the same as the Anniversary with reguard to the FPS. This service manual http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/manual-pdf/AnniversaryService1.pdf will cover it completely.

Graflex requirements:
1. With the curtain at O and the tension at its lowest setting the shutter should close and lock when tripped with the camera in any orientation. Lock means that the wind key will only turn in the direction of the wind arrow. If the curtain does not fully close correct the drag on the curtain or increase the tension on the lower roller in 1/4 turn increments until it does.
2. With the tension set to its highest setting the curtain should wind to the smallest aperture. If the curtain will not wind to the smallest aperture then the initial tension on the lower roller is too high.

What JimC said is pretty much direct from the service manual. Another check not mentioned in the service manual is to wind the curtain to the smallest aperture and run down to closed after open 5 to 10 times to pack the curtain if the curtain has been removed and reinstalled then wind to O and each aperture. The top opening stay for O and the bottom aperture stay of the other 4 apertures should be above the image opening top guide roller to the lower edge of the top curtain roller when wound to that aperture. Trip the shutter and hold the trip lever in the trip position, the shutter should close with the top aperture stay of the 4 speed apertures below the lower image opening guide roller. It is normal for the curtain to bounce 1/8-3/16 inch upward on closing at any aperture or tension setting.
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