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Heiland E 23-2 Extension tube, Ect .. What it's use?

 
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peter k



Joined: 26 Dec 2009
Posts: 166
Location: Sedona Az

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 4:44 pm    Post subject: Heiland E 23-2 Extension tube, Ect .. What it's use? Reply with quote

In the old Graflex box, was a Heiland E 23-2 Extension tube .. that has me perplexed. It will not attach to the 3 D cell 'light saber' flash handle, so how can it be an extension tube! Although its the same diameter, what was it used for?

It takes one D cell battery, has a small blub on one end, within the external edge of the chrome end, which has a smaller blub and socket. Which now occupies the space that originally took a larger blub. The small base goes down deep in there. Was this part of the original extension?

At this blub end, is black plastic riming the area, with the inscription " Eagle 660w 250v. ... Say what??? For gosh sakes it's only a 1.5v D cell battery!

Also in the old Graflex box is a Photo Flash blub Adapter. That looks like it has the proper treads to go into this extension tube, if the smaller blub was not in there. Or was this pushed into the flash end of the 3 D cell 'light saber' flash for use with smaller blubs?

Please, if you can, enlighten me on all this. Thanks
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3201
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A Heiland extension will only fit a Heiland Flash.
Sockets and switches are rated for their maximum Power in watts, Voltage, and Current in Amps.
A 660W, 250V socket can handle a maximum current of 2.64 amps at 250V. The socket has sufficient capacity to handle the 7 to 10 amps of a battery powered flash.

Adapters were made for using bayonet bulbs in Mazda (screw base) sockets.
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Sirius Glass



Joined: 06 Jun 2010
Posts: 123
Location: Southern California & Virginia

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My HR flash takes 3 D cells, it has a 2 D cell extension. The two provide 5 D cells for using 2A, 11, 22, 31 and 44 flashbulbs with the 7" reflector.
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peter k



Joined: 26 Dec 2009
Posts: 166
Location: Sedona Az

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok ... had a thought... after last post, and I'll be darned. I pushed out the blub and its housing, and now the short 2 D cell extension will screw on the bottom of the HR Flash, making it a five D cell for the other flash blubs.

Now a new question.
What the heck is the black thing, with copper light blub screw base. It encloses a small blub with its base. It can fit into the top of the flash.

Some ideas that come to mind.
A ready battery test? Insert it into the flash. (Look at how bright the light shines.) I inserted it into the flash, and hooked it up to the speed, and fired it. Nothing. Perhaps the blub is burned out, but the filament looks good, and I can't seem to be able to get the blub out, nor the housing that's inside this black thing.
Or could it have been a blub extender, for a larger reflector? But then what is the blub doing in it?
It can't be an adapter, as I have one of those from screw flash to the push twist and lock smaller bulb.

Any more ideas?
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This old equipment is so simple that in this advanced age it is now difficult to figure out.

A picture would help.To post a picture here upload it to an image hosting site then use the code provided by the host or link it here.
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Sirius Glass



Joined: 06 Jun 2010
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Location: Southern California & Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe that the little bulb is a test bulb.

Steve
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peter k



Joined: 26 Dec 2009
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Location: Sedona Az

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Old equipment is so simple that in this advanced age it is now difficult to figure out.

Oh I LOVE it!!!
Camera equipment, as well as in old 'arts.
In the same vein... from http://www.butkus.org/chinon/web_page_search_engines.htm
Quote:
How the exposure meter works is the most important. In the '70s there was just a simple exposure control. Full aperture metering or stopped down metering. Not much was different. In the early '80 to '90s electronics came in and gave all kinds of dials, LED and Up and Down arrows. Again, most did the same thing. You just had to figure how to adjust the dial. In the late 90's the buttons appeared everywhere and you really needed a book to explain all the gismo's that were on them.

Were still trying to determine which is in better shape .. the '46' speed or me.
Were both the same age.

Ok googled image hosting sites. To many choices.
Lets KISS it... name one... just so it isn't the flicker type sights... I joined that one for about half a day... to many e-mails from people who I vaguely knew.. Interferes with casting shadows when shooting film shoots, with old CMC's.
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
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Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://imageshack.us/
or search engine
free image hosting
and pick something from the top of the list.
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peter k



Joined: 26 Dec 2009
Posts: 166
Location: Sedona Az

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok lets see if it works, never done this before...

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/269/pictureai.jpg/
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45PSS



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

great, now how about one looking into the socket from the bulb about the same close up or an inch or two back.
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peter k



Joined: 26 Dec 2009
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Location: Sedona Az

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/picture2ux.jpg/
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
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Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Test bulb. Factory or pro shop made. It will tell the user that their wiring is good before loosing a shot due to the flash not firing and saves flash bulbs.

Won't unscrew, probably corrosion on the bulb threads. Maybe fused to the socket due to dis similar metals. Put 2 to 3 drops penetrating oil (not WD40) at the top edge of the bulb base and let it work for a few hours to a day or two. I have had some bulbs that the glass had to be broken out then the edge of the bulb base griped with needle nose pliers and twisted out.
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peter k



Joined: 26 Dec 2009
Posts: 166
Location: Sedona Az

PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK..., mystery solved. For the heck of it, I'll get the blub out, replace it, and try it. Thank you..
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