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Graphic Lens Board 2x3 Blank

 
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1banjo



Joined: 16 Nov 2008
Posts: 478
Location: kansas

PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 9:34 pm    Post subject: Graphic Lens Board 2x3 Blank Reply with quote

I don't remember who was looking Graphic Lens Board 2x3 but
midwest Photo Exchange Graphic Lens Board 2x3 Blank

Item #: GRA1002

Price: $29.00

at http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,1757.html

banjo

PS I was looking for a roll film back spring so if anyone
knows of any I need 3 to 5 !!!
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Henry



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1439
Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By "roll film back spring," I assume you mean the return spring on the film advance lever? Lustig has 'em, but he wouldn't sell me one; I had to send my RH10 to him for the repair. BTW, this is the one advantage that I see to having the knob advance---no return spring to break.

Prices on the 2x3 lensboards have risen, if that $29 is typical. I don't think I ever paid more than $20 for one. Tempts me to try making one at home, but I don't have a machine shop---only basic hand tools and a Dremel. I do have a variety of tools used in model railroading. The tricky part would be the rounded corners, and the flange.
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3206
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

According to a RH series service manual there are 8 springs in total, 2 in the shell and 6 in the carriage.
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1banjo



Joined: 16 Nov 2008
Posts: 478
Location: kansas

PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the lever return spring is what I need!!
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3206
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

39608P1 Spring- Film Advance Lever (part number-description)

When making a lens board for a Pacemaker or Super Graphic from 3/16 ABS, Acrylic, or Plywood cut out the blank so that the blank will just sit into the front standard frame. Using a router or Dremel with a straight cut router bit route the outer edge of the blank so that the blank will sit into the throat of the front standard and the lens board locks fit snugly over the outside edge of the blank. The outer edge will be about 1/16 inch thick and does not need the light trap lip like the original as the extra thickness of the blank just fitting into the throat forms a light trap. Next center drill the mount hole routing the edge if needed to get the lock ring to fit the shutter.

The outside edge lip is doable with a Dremel but it will be thin and brittle and the bit must be very sharp.

I've only done 4x5 boards but the 3x4 or 2x3 should be the same. I use a Variable Speed Dremel with a router attachment.
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Henry



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1439
Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks---good suggestions! Anything to get my brain in gear. At the moment, I'm flush with blank lensboards (well, I have maybe two on hand), but making them may become a winter project. More fun than shovelling the white stuff!
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