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127 Ektar on a 2x3?

 
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wlewisiii



Joined: 20 Jan 2005
Posts: 55
Location: Madison, Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 10:39 pm    Post subject: 127 Ektar on a 2x3? Reply with quote

Spent the last couple of days putting together my Miniature Speed Graphic. It's a nice prewar (40? 41? sn 260838) camera made even nicer by the installation of a Graflok back for my roll film holders. I have mounted on it a nice CZJ 105/4.5 Tessar in Compur-Rapid (I think this was original to the camera) but have been considering other options.

I have a nice 127/4.7 Ektar that I normally use on my 4x5 Anniversary. However I was thinking this might make an interesting longer focus, almost "portrait" length lens on the smaller format. There's plenty of bellows and I was thinking of putting a second set of infinity stops adjusted for the rear of the front standard being slid on from the front.

Anyone here tried this? Good, bad, indifferent? It's a decent specimen from 1943 in a #2 Kodak Supermatic shutter.

I intend to add a 65 someday, too, but that will depend on finding one a bottom feeder can afford.

Thanks,

William
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4x5 and a Tessar is heaven
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Dan Fromm



Joined: 14 May 2001
Posts: 1892
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

William, I've never used my 127 Ektar, it is basically a junker. But I do use a 127 Tominon on my 2x3 Graphics. Useful focal length, but its only 27% longer than normal. I mention this because if you believe that 50 mm is normal on 35 mm, well then the shortest focal length used for portraiture on that format is around 85 mm, i.e., 70% longer than normal and many use around 100 mm, 2x normal.

As they say somewhere or other, just do it. And then you'll know how you like it.

Good luck, have fun,

Dan
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wlewisiii



Joined: 20 Jan 2005
Posts: 55
Location: Madison, Wisconsin

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dan,

One thing I've slowly learned is that it's pretty hard to compare focal lengths from 35mm to anything larger

However... puttering with it to get a spare set of stops into the right place, I discovered that the feet of the front standard are so long that even butted up against the front of the other set, it's too far forward for infinity on a 127 lens. Hrm. Going to need to think about this. OTOH, it's not like I haven't got a really good lens on it already.

William
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glennfromwy



Joined: 29 Nov 2001
Posts: 903
Location: S.W. Wyoming

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 1:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, William --
Infinity stops be damned. The 127 Ektar on 2X3 really, really shines. You'd be using the best of the image circle of an already very good optic. I stick one on a 2X3 every now and then. Especially for color film. For portrait work, which is not my thing, I would never use a rangefinder anyway. I want to selectively focus the face. To do that, the ground glass is necessary for me.
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Glenn

"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo"
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wlewisiii



Joined: 20 Jan 2005
Posts: 55
Location: Madison, Wisconsin

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 1:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glen, that's a good point. Slide it out to the main ones & just GG it from there. As long as I use my better tripod I should be able to swap the GG & roll back without wiggling it.

Now the other problem I have, it seems kind of silly, but I can't get the flange to budge to get it off of the 4x5 lens board. It was screwed on but even after those three screws are out, I can't get it to budge around the shutter.

Anyone got some tips?

William
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glennfromwy



Joined: 29 Nov 2001
Posts: 903
Location: S.W. Wyoming

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm a bit unclear about your description of the mount. Is tthe flange on the backside of the board? The Supermatic shutter normally had a locating (anti rotation) pin on the back side. If this is the case, and the flange was screw mounted on the back of the board, it will be a bit tricky to remove it. What I've done with similar situations is to use a pair of needle nose pliers with the tips ground thinner. Put the tips into two of the screw holes, push in a little, and twist. It should turn and screw off. I take those little pins out of the back of the shutter.
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Glenn

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wlewisiii



Joined: 20 Jan 2005
Posts: 55
Location: Madison, Wisconsin

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 2:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the reminder about the pin. I was trying to twist the front and getting nowhere but with the end of a needlenose in the screw holes in the flange while holding the board got it going. It was a tight fit so it took a bit of persuading...

Now I just need to find an appropriate lens board. All I can ever find are Pacemaker type and then to get one with a big enough hole... Argh

William
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Les



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 2682
Location: Detroit, MI

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 3:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While I know it's abit late, but I just discovered a very nice way of removing old cells from shutters and flanges from lensboards/shutters with that infernal locating pin....

double sided foam tape.

I've used needle nose pliers, I even have a pair of spanner wrenches for taking off retaining rings and the occasional element ring. But I've had my fair share slip and dig a trench in, at best the lens board, at worst the rear cell or shutter.

I found two small strips of foam tape put down on the formica workbench (read kitchen counter) and I press the lens cell/ flange on the tape and then twist.

It's worked every time. The only trouble I've had was the flange (the flat one with screw holes) had a bit too much surface area and was a slightly difficult to get off the counter!
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glennfromwy



Joined: 29 Nov 2001
Posts: 903
Location: S.W. Wyoming

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 4:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good idea, Les. I use all kinds of home brew friction tools for removing lens element rings. One of my favorites is a 3" long piece of heater hose.
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Glenn

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