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super speed graphic lens

 
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pup7



Joined: 23 May 2001
Posts: 7
Location: new mexico

PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2002 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have a super speed with a rodenstock graflex optar 135 f/4.5. i cant find a filter size anywhere. plus i was able to find an instruction manual online for the camera, but when i got it, it didnt talk about any lenses. is there a manual for the lens as well? thanks for all the continued help i get with my new camera.
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extraparts



Joined: 10 Feb 2002
Posts: 59
Location: texas

PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2002 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It takes a series 6. You unscrew the lens shade and it fits between the shade and the lens.
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pup7



Joined: 23 May 2001
Posts: 7
Location: new mexico

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2002 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the info, but how do you unscrew the shade? i kind of tried, but it didnt budge and i didnt want to push it. also, do you know anything about a manual for the lens that might show me how to remove the shade
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3212
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2002 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1) purchase a lens filter wrench, available at most camera stores.

2) use a make do lens filter wrench, a length of #12 or #14 lamp cord wire cut long enough to clamp both ends in a pair of pliers or vice grips after going around the filter.

3) Go to Sears and get their new plastic handled with rubber strap strap wrench.

If filter is really stuck the entire front element group might come loose. This can be prevented by using two wrenches, one on the lens group the other on the filter.
I have used both #2 & #3 successfully!

Charles

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hmartin@tns.net



Joined: 04 Sep 2001
Posts: 83

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2002 4:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a large rubber band to loosen stuck filters and lens hoods. Try it in one location and then keep rotating the lens 20 or 30 degrees and try again. Keep doing that... it will come free. Just be patient, it's safer.

Of course, the rubber band is used to better grip the filter or lens hood.

[ This Message was edited by: hmartin@tns.net on 2002-02-10 20:41 ]
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jpmose



Joined: 29 May 2001
Posts: 164
Location: Atlanta, GA

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2002 6:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello,

Beyond your lens shade situation, I can offer further information and you are more than welcome to ask me any questions in the future. I have this shutter/lens combo, along with the 270mm Tele Optar with 1000 shutter. I'm in New York at the moment, so I don't have my literature in front of me. I believe the shutter was introduced in 1959 and lasted until 1970. The 270mm Tele Optar had a shorter production run and was never popular. It took me years to find one and suddenly last fall I found one new in the box! This 1000 shutter has a bad reputation for being delicate and easily jammed. There are a few tips on avoiding this problem. 1) Cock it slowly. 2) turn the shutter speed ring slowly. 3) NEVER cock or release the shutter when the close/open lever(marked "O" and "C") is in the open position. 4) When the shutter speed ring is set at O and the shutter is released...the shutter will remain open until the shutter ring is rotated to "B". Make sure your follow this procedure. Don't try to cock the shutter when it is open.

I had my 135mm Optar in this shutter rebuilt in 1980 by W. D. Service (now out of business). I have never had a problem since. But I don't use it that much...I mainly exercise the shutter. I would suggest gettin a repair manual for it.

There was a slight modification in the early to mid 60's. One of the shutter blades is angled outward at the tip. I think this was to avoid slicing the other blades if the shutter jammed (and this did happen!).

The lenses supplier with this shutter were Rodenstock lenses made in Germany. I believe that the other Optars were all made in America.

You will find it impossible to get anyone to work on this shutter, much to my chagrin!
As a result, I mainly just exercise mine because I want to keep them as collectors items. The 270mm lens in 1000 shutter is very rare! The fastest f/stop is f/6.5 and the lenses was considerably more than a conventional shutter setup which also had a speed of F/5.6. At the point that is shutter was released, the need for high speed large format was diminishing due to the popularity of smaller formats. The Zeiss lenses introduced for Linhofs (75mm Biogon, 135mm Planar and 250mm Sonnar) also suffered from the sudden change in smaller format popularity. These Zeiss lenses were introduced on the Technika IV in 1957 (earlier on the medium format Technikas). Till this day they are outstanding performers and have the used price tag to go along with it. They had limited coverage but performed very well at wide aperatures. Since large format photographers were getting away from hand held use of the camera, lenses with better coverage made more sense and the Zeiss lens popularity never got off the ground!

Back to the 1000 shutter, it was also made with flash contacts on the front of the lens board in both the 135mm and 270mm to be supplied with the "Speed Graphic Model 1000" (identical to a Crown Graphic but with different name badges and the 1000 shutter/lens supplied with it). Another set-up not seen too often.

Graflex did have an instruction booklet for various shutters typically supplied at the time. I beleive this booklet was released during the 1960's. I have one, but as I said earlier, I am away from home. I will be glad to quote you the info. on the 1000 shutter when I return home or I could FAX the page to you as well.

Best of luck!

J. P. Mose
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extraparts



Joined: 10 Feb 2002
Posts: 59
Location: texas

PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2002 1:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my camera, you rotate the shade clockwise to cock the shutter, and counter clockwise to remove the shade and install the filter. It doesn't take much force.

I would be very afraid to use much force as this is a very rare shutter/lens, and parts don't grow on trees. I always unscrew my shade with the shutter uncocked but I don't know if it makes a difference.

The threads are quite fine and it is possiable that someone in the past cross threaded them. However I wouldn't think they could do that and get the flange flush.


I assume you do have the large chrome shade? I have seen them advertised on Ebay missing the shade.

I have been told that once they put the upturned corner on the top shutter blade, that the shutter is quite reliable but, I don't use mine either except for exercising it like the other poster, and I seldom use 1/1000 of a second even then.

Your best bet may be to buy a standard lens and shutter if you want to use the camera on a day to day basis. Then you get filter threads and a more repairable shutter.

The camera was sold in that configuration as a "Super Graphic"

I have been told by someone who went to school on how to repair this shutter that the tips of the blades at 1/1000 of a second move faster than the speed of sound.

Neal
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3212
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2002 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For clarity, normal filter/lens shade removal is 15 to 25 inch pounds of torque while lens group is around 150 inch pounds.
When installing 5 to 7 inch pounds of torque is sufficent to "snug". (144 inch pounds = 1 foot pound)

Charles

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