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6x9cm format cut film

 
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R_J



Joined: 03 Aug 2004
Posts: 137
Location: Europe

PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 4:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm starting to see the advantages of 6x9cm miniature sheet film for a Century Graphic.

Does anyone cut their own? How do you do it in the darkroom?

Using 2x3 dark slides, and a developping tank, I guess it's easier to control development without streaking; developer drag and other artifacts.

Needing advice as I'm finding a knife blade and cutter way too dangerous for my fingers in the dark..
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troublemaker



Joined: 24 Nov 2003
Posts: 715
Location: So Cal

PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A couple of the fellas here get pre-cut film from jandcphotography.com. I have not personally, but I have tried to cut it and decided to leave that to someone set up better to do it. You would need to set up some kind of a jig I would think. I tried to do this and deemed it a bit too much trouble and am not set up for developing either. As far as cutting, I was able to safely cut film on a roller paper cutter witha new blade without any bleeding. There are a number of adjustable sheet film developing tank systems available. One thing's for sure, 2x3 sheet film holders are a dime a dozen these days.

[ This Message was edited by: troublemaker on 2006-01-31 22:34 ]
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Henry



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1427
Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

R_J, does this mean that you are preferring 2x3 cut film to 120 roll film? Have you tried roll film on your Century? I can highly recommend Ilford XP2 Super for b/w. It's a chromogenic film that develops in C-41 (color) chemistry, a widely available process (though not for the home darkroom). For convenience it can't be beat, and the film has very wide exposure latitude. I routinely expose it at EV 100 (its nominal rating is 400). You may find that the wide selection of color and b/w emulsions in 120 format, plus the convenience of use and processing, not to mention cost, will make roll film an attractive alternative to cut film.
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R_J



Joined: 03 Aug 2004
Posts: 137
Location: Europe

PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there,

Thanks. J&C seem to do two emulsions only for 6x9cm sheet.

I've looked at a paper cutter and unfortunately it looks like it will scratch the film over the rollers and surfaces. A pastry-cake jig cutter is what I had in mind although from an 8" wide roll running 50 metres, it seems more plausible to squeeze out 2x 4x5" sheets from every 5" section of film.

For some reason I already have two 2x3 developing tanks; a naughty American sold me one pretending it was 4x5.

Hi Henry - I've tried roll film at 6x6cm and 6x9cm on my Century. It generally works fine, however I'm not getting to play around images using different developers. The roll film backs are absolutely fine, I didn't think of using chromo film actually.....thanks for the reiminder - I used to enjoy Kodak T400CN when it was alive. Guess I'm so much used to developing my own, it makes the difference a challenge. 50metres of 8" film is incredibly affordable - a dime a dozen - no one wants this stuff. I'd be quite satisfied spending a day cutting the whole roll down to 4x5" and 2x3" if I could feel a little more assured about maintaining the quality of the film during cutting.

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Henry



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1427
Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

R_J, I see your point, and I say "Go for it!" But just a footnote to the Kodak T400CN: I too have shot quite a few rolls of it, and I much prefer the Ilford XP2 Super. Something about the way it scans (I'm in the digital darkroom, once my negs are developed at the C-41 lab) just makes a nicer b/w image for me. However, I have heard from traditional darkroom guys that they don't like chromogenic b/w at all compared to silver chemistry. And of course chromogenic's archival qualities have yet to be determined. I wouldn't place any bets on it, though. Even Fox Talbot's first paper negative survives, which boggles the mind.

BTW, it finally dawned on me (duh!) that the "T" in "T400CN" indicated Kodak's T-Max technology, and "CN" means "color negative."
I have yet to discover what "XP" stands for in XP2; "eXtra" something or other, no doubt?

WRT "naughty American": as W.C. Fields used to say, "Pardon my redundancy."

[ This Message was edited by: Henry on 2006-02-01 17:57 ]
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David A. Goldfarb



Joined: 03 Sep 2004
Posts: 142
Location: New York City

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 5:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used Efke PL 100, J&C 200 and 400 in 2x3" sheets from J&C. They don't have the 400 at the moment, but they say they'll be stocking it again later in the year. In the UK you should be able to get it from http://www.retrophotography.com, and in the rest of Europe from fotoimpex.de. I think HP5+ may be available in Europe in 2x3" sheets. It used to be available here.

I've thought about cutting down film with a Rotatrim, which has the necessary precision and is safe to operate in the dark, but I'd just rather not handle the film that much if I don't have to.
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R_J



Joined: 03 Aug 2004
Posts: 137
Location: Europe

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there,

Henry - that's a very good point. I used to enjoy Kodak T400CN (and didn't know what the T stood for! CN was ok ) with Panalure. Since both are discontinued for some time, I think I might try the XP2 again. Fuji's similar emulsion 400CN derived from XP2 probably offers better compatibility for machine run Frontier prints. I think you're spot on with this: there's no point in using chromogenics for handprinting (unless desperate). The chromogenics all scan far better for digital prints as I understand...
I'm firmly optical-analogue. I'm open to digital printing from film, if the results have a distinction worth pursuing.



[WRT "naughty American": as W.C. Fields used to say, "Pardon my redundancy."]



http://www.webtrec.com/wcfields/

Hi David,

The rotatrim seems like it would be one step of the way, just to get the negative roll down to manageable sizes.

A rigid metal grid corner measuring 2x3" or 5x4", such as a half section from a plastic stationery box would be the storage box; the film can then be trimmed into this L shaped box through sequential sectioning, and then transferred via the edges into a dark wallet.

I think I've worked out how to get a centrifugal air filter into the darkroom which would minimise circular air movement.

Btw - how do you find PL100? I haven't tried this before, although I hear it's supposed to be Agfa-esque, in the same way that filling out an IRC form is Kafka-esque...

[ This Message was edited by: R_J on 2006-02-02 10:02 ]
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David A. Goldfarb



Joined: 03 Sep 2004
Posts: 142
Location: New York City

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Efke PL 100 is a beautiful film, responds well to pyro, pushes one stop nicely in Acufine, and can build good density for alt process printing, if that's of interest. Here are some shots I've posted before on PL100 4x5" at EI 200 in Acufine (click the first image to cycle through the stack)--

http://www.echonyc.com/~goldfarb/halloween

And if you're an APUG subscriber, here's another (I think non-subscribers just see a thumbnail)--

http://www.apug.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11108&cat=500&ppuser=60

I ought to scan some new stuff, because I've been shooting this film a fair amount in the last year or so.
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R_J



Joined: 03 Aug 2004
Posts: 137
Location: Europe

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks David - even on a jpeg, the tonal scale of the PL100 is apparent in the Halloween shot. Slightly OT, I haven't worked out my password for Apug for sometime now, and if the site is restricting access to non-subscribers too..

I'm not a pyrocat fan yet

http://www.rangefinderforum.com seems like an interesting website - I've just discovered it this year and am surprised to see so much interest and life in a niche film based forum. It's reassuring.

I'll try some PL100 then. I've never seen HP5+ in 2x3" format either - guess I'll have to check Ilford UK out.



RJ
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glennfromwy



Joined: 29 Nov 2001
Posts: 903
Location: S.W. Wyoming

PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ilford's XP2 prints nicely on standard B&W papers. I tried T400CN and found it almost impossible to print on variable contrast papers. I was so disgusted with it, I gave it all away.If you print in a traditional darkroom and like the convenience of chromogenic B&W film, XP2 is the only way to go. HP5+ is a nice film and the only one Ilford makes in 2X3. If you like color film, 70mm film can often be had at dirt cheap prices. A 100 ft roll would cut into a LOT of 2X3. Good luck....

_________________
Glenn

"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo"
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R_J



Joined: 03 Aug 2004
Posts: 137
Location: Europe

PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Glenn,

Just to get back to you:

I checked with one of my Ilford UK suppliers 2 weeks ago with respect to Ilford HP5+ availability in 2x3" format.

It is no longer available/made in 2x3" sheet format and any stock around is remaindered.

Another supplier informs me that Maco products still offer 2x3" cut film (6.5x9cm) sheets in the UK and Europe. Sounds like this is the same Maco UP100 film that is available in every size from 20"x24" down to 127mm film.
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pv17vv



Joined: 22 Dec 2001
Posts: 255
Location: The Ardennes, Belgium

PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2006 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maco is here :

http://www.mahn.net/Frameset.htm

Georges
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