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Graphex shutter release question?

 
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RichS



Joined: 18 Oct 2001
Posts: 1467
Location: South of Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2001 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 135 is in a Graphex synchromatic shutter. I only recently found out that the cable shutter release doesn't work. If I don't screw it in all the way and cock it a bit to the right (facing the front of the shutter) it will work. So it seems like something is bent or broken? Anyone have experience with this problem and fixing it? Doesn't seem worthwhile monetarily to have it fixed? And everything else works just fine. But there sure are times when a cable release would come in handy...

Thanks for any info or suggestions...

Rich...
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Henry



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1439
Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2001 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rich,
First thing I'd do is check the cable release and make sure that the plunger (the part that moves into the shutter) isn't hyperextended at rest, i.e., already protruding out from the end of the cable before you push the thumb button. This could be caused by a kink in the cable, or an out-of-adjustment condition at the thumb end of the cable. Check the shutter with another cable release or two and see if you still have the problem.
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hmartin@tns.net



Joined: 04 Sep 2001
Posts: 83

PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2001 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not use a solenoid? Harry
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Dan Fromm



Joined: 14 May 2001
Posts: 1882
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2001 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2001-12-06 12:20, RichS wrote:
My 135 is in a Graphex synchromatic shutter. I only recently found out that the cable shutter release doesn't work. If I don't screw it in all the way and cock it a bit to the right (facing the front of the shutter) it will work. So it seems like something is bent or broken? Anyone have experience with this problem and fixing it? Doesn't seem worthwhile monetarily to have it fixed? And everything else works just fine. But there sure are times when a cable release would come in handy...

Thanks for any info or suggestions...

Rich...


Have you tried fiddling with the shutter's orientation on the board? I ask because when I went from a 101/4.5 Ektar to a 105/3.7, the 105 was in a bigger shutter and had to be oriented just so, and the finger in the cable release that actually fired the shutter had to be oriented even more carefully, before the thing would work.

Cheers,

Dan
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RichS



Joined: 18 Oct 2001
Posts: 1467
Location: South of Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2001 3:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2001-12-06 13:43, Henry wrote:
Rich,
First thing I'd do is check the cable release and make sure that the plunger (the part that moves into the shutter) isn't hyperextended at rest, i.e., already protruding out from the end of the cable before you push the thumb button. This could be caused by a kink in the cable, or an out-of-adjustment condition at the thumb end of the cable. Check the shutter with another cable release or two and see if you still have the problem.



Thanks, but I have and tried several cable releases and even a screw-in self timer. All work the same, or not as thhe case may be...
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RichS



Joined: 18 Oct 2001
Posts: 1467
Location: South of Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2001 3:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2001-12-06 15:44, hmartin@tns.net wrote:
Why not use a solenoid? Harry


Well, I don't have one...

And would a solenoid facilitate the use of a cable release? I didn't think it functioned so? If it does, I suspect finding a used one and installing it would be preferable to having the shutter repaired?

Thanks, I'll look into this...
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RichS



Joined: 18 Oct 2001
Posts: 1467
Location: South of Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2001 3:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2001-12-06 16:16, Dan Fromm wrote:
Have you tried fiddling with the shutter's orientation on the board? I ask because when I went from a 101/4.5 Ektar to a 105/3.7, the 105 was in a bigger shutter and had to be oriented just so, and the finger in the cable release that actually fired the shutter had to be oriented even more carefully, before the thing would work.

Cheers,

Dan


I must be missing something? How does the orientation of the shuuter affect the screw-in cable release socket? I didn't change it because it was oriented for the Pacemaker side release mechanism (which has since been temporarily removed because it won't allow the use of a very large shutter).
Maybe we're talking about different problems? This is strictly about the screw-in socket for the external cable release. Everything else works fine...
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Les



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 2682
Location: Detroit, MI

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2001 5:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The orientation of the shutter has everything to do with the side release and nothing to do with screwing in a cable release.

It sounds as though the tab inside the shutter is mis-aligned and the cable release is running past it instead of pushing it.

I had the nut that holds the cable release socket come undone and fall into the shutter jamming the gears. SK Grimes fixed it for $35. this was a B&L 88mm in a graphex worth about $80. Well worth the investment. I'd give him a call or send him an email.

A standard solenoid will trip the shutter via the lever on the outside (they did make solenoids that screwed into the cable socket, but that's no benefit to you). The trouble with the solenoid is you need a battery case to trip the shutter.

[ This Message was edited by: Les on 2001-12-06 21:51 ]
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jdman



Joined: 13 May 2001
Posts: 302
Location: Midwest

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2001 6:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have several graflex shutters, and it seems that they are not easy to trip with a shutter release cable. The light duty with the cloth covers seem to be the worst of the lot. I have one extra heavy duty and it works the best but not what I consider smooth. The one thing that works the best for me is a rig consisting of a Graflite tube, and solenoid. I have modified it for either Strobe or # 5 flashbulbs. I guess I am from the old school, but I like the bulbs and have an ample supply. In addition the tube makes a nice handle, and there is nothing like just pressing that red button. Russ
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hmartin@tns.net



Joined: 04 Sep 2001
Posts: 83

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2001 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rich... The Graflite/Graflex battery case is attached to the solenoid with a cable. The battery case can be removed from the camera and used on another tripod or handheld and it works without flashbulbs. I use flashbulbs and an electronic flash on my battery case. My Crown Graphic wouldn't be complete without my flash! I have several pages of Graflite info in one of my albums on Photopoint. Go to my web site 'www.angelfire.com/art/architecturalphoto' and click my 'Graflex' link under my favorite web sites. Harry .....P.S. I see you already have the Graflite. My Graflite Instruction Manual has two pages on the 'adjustment of solenoid'. I can add it to my photopoint album if you decide to go this route. I use HR solenoids, they work for me.

[ This Message was edited by: hmartin@tns.net on 2001-12-06 23:48 ]

[ This Message was edited by: hmartin@tns.net on 2001-12-07 00:44 ]
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RichS



Joined: 18 Oct 2001
Posts: 1467
Location: South of Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2001 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Les. Yes, if it could be fixed in the 35 dollar range it would be well worthwhile even with the minimal shipping added. Boy, I'd hate to be without the 'standard' lens for any length of time though. I've been seriously thinking of buying a Crown (possibly another Speed) and may wait for that?

And thanks to all for the explanations of the solenoid. I forgot it needed the battery case to fire. I'd like to pick up one, even to just 'play with' and add to the collection. And I had thought of trying to body mount it so one would work with all the lenses. I'm a tinkerer... But I don't think I'd like to replace a none working cable release with a solenoid. Besides, it seems to me that there's still no way to fire the solenoid using a cable release which defeats the whole purpose anyway? I can do time exposures now with the shutter. It's the vibration I'm trying to eliminate by using the cable release...

Thanks for all the info!

Rich...
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wolvertone



Joined: 27 Nov 2001
Posts: 31
Location: Southern USA

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2001 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have several old lenses and I use the same cable for all. Some will not work with the cable. I think it is a matter of the plunger maybe not being LONG ENOUGH to trip.

Try (carefully) using a paper clip or some other an see if you can trip the shutter.

Just a thought.

Steve
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Henry



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1439
Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2001 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like it, Steve. As for other options, my thoughts are: (1) if Rich already owns a solenoid, he could go that route; otherwise why bother, since for the expense of a solenoid he could probably (2) get Lustig or someone to repair the shutter. Meanwhile, (3) there are five other possibilities at the end of each hand that will trip the shutter, and without vibration if one is careful. This last solution has the advantage of being instantly available and free.
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RichS



Joined: 18 Oct 2001
Posts: 1467
Location: South of Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2001 3:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, Rich doesn't have a solenoid
And the "five other" shutter releases don't work as well as a single cable release for certain situations. One, shooting stars or other low light situations with bright points. You can pick up that little bit of vibration. Second, with a Lee filter holder in place. Doesn't leave much room for my big fingers. A minor third, a self timer. Don't know of any other way to remotely trigger the shutter without using the cable release socket... So I'll either pick up another camera (Crown of View II) and hope for a good lens/shutter or I'll get this one repaired sometime soon?

And I finaly took a good close look at the screw-in hole. I can see the release all the way across the hole at the end of the threads, but it's about 90% to the front of the lens. 10% shiny metal release, 90% black hole. So it looks like it's either just bent or slipped out of place. Maybe I'll just take the thing apart myself? Haven't had that kind of fun since the last wind-up watch I took apart, and 'apart' is the key word

Rich...
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RichS



Joined: 18 Oct 2001
Posts: 1467
Location: South of Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2001 4:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little update. Don't know why I didn't do this before? After checking out what was inside the hole, I checked a bit further. It's not a 'plate' but a bar. A thin bar that's not even close to centered in the hole. Checked the cable releases next. They are all round nosed. All of them! Even the little "L" adapter and self timer. So they slip off the bar before the shutter is released. 5 minutes with a small fine file and they are all now flat. Every single one works now. One of them is slightly thinner and works just most of the time. So this temporarily fixes the problem.

And just for the curious. Yes, I did take the front plate off the shutter to see if I could fix it. Luckily, I got it right back on without losing any parts, springs or hair from my head (and I have none to spare!)... I will not be making that mistake again any time soon! Wind-up watches are a piece of cake compared to what I saw inside that shutter... I usually know my own limitations

Thanks to all. The actual repair will now be delayed a bit longer

Rich...
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