Graflex.org Forum Index Graflex.org
Get help with your Graflex questions here
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

4x5 CG 'rail' damage; 4x5 SG

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Graflex.org Forum Index -> Large Format Photography
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Murray@uptowngallery.org



Joined: 03 Apr 2002
Posts: 164
Location: Holland MI

PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 12:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello:

Ahh, I figured out how to post again!

I wrote to Fred Lustig due to incompatible schedules for telephone contact, but haven't heard back. I understand he was recuperating from a stroke.

I have a 4x5 CG with damaged 'slides' that the bed rail retracts in to. The aluminum rail seems to need to be straightened, but the split slides are barely usable (maybe). Does anyone have a spare pair?

I had the lens CLA'ed & repaired locally but the repairman didn't have parts for the rest of the work.

I also received a long-awaited 4x5 SG with no back & bad bellows. I picked up a replacement bellows on eBay.

The shutter seems to work ok. I am still trying to figure out how many speeds there are. I see 1, 50, 250 and 1000 in a window on the side as the shutter tension is increased. I suspect there must be more speeds than this. The '1' position seems to just leave the shutter open for focusing (widest opening). Maybe it's 'I' rather than '1'.

I'm interested in an affordable back for it, or will make a wooden one myself.

Thanks

Murray
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
t.r.sanford



Joined: 10 Nov 2003
Posts: 812
Location: East Coast (Long Island)

PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you look at the very bottom of the crinkle-finish black metal cover plate that supports the FP shutter wind key, shutter selector/trip slide and flash synch posts, you'll see a small shiny lever. Swung to the front, it produces lower spring tension and gives you speeds of 1/30, 1/125 and 1/500. In its rear position, the speeds become 1/50, 1/250 and 1/1000. I think the "I" you're looking at really is a "T" -- at that setting, with the lever in either position, the curtain is closed. When the shutter is released, the curtain opens, for a time exposure. The only way to close it, though, is to wind the curtain back to "T," or cap the lens.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Murray@uptowngallery.org



Joined: 03 Apr 2002
Posts: 164
Location: Holland MI

PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you.

I hoped that's what the switch was for, but apparently my attention span was too short to finish exploring that...that's why I keep starting other camera projects )

Murray
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Murray@uptowngallery.org



Joined: 03 Apr 2002
Posts: 164
Location: Holland MI

PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How weird- a little bug-eyed smiley at the end of my message...I might have reflexively typed an ascii one, but I don't even remember doing that.

I have to try a 'yuk' in stead of a smiley...
(
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
t.r.sanford



Joined: 10 Nov 2003
Posts: 812
Location: East Coast (Long Island)

PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Incidentally, every Graflex FP shutter I've seen EXCEPT the one on my 4X5 "Pacemaker Speed" has a Closed position below O, which you reach after T. This gives you a way to end a Time exposure, which one would expect. On my 4X5, I cannot coax the curtain beyond T. This may well be a mechanical problem. You might try yours and see what happens.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3233
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With shutter set to "T" releasing shutter causes curtain to move to a "full frame open" as stated in the previous post. Releasing the the shutter again causes curtain to close the film opening completely and "O" appear in time window. The top of the full frame opening should be 1/4 inch below the bottom of the film opening of the camera. If it is not that indicitates that the tension is off and the shutter requires service. Service instructions for Side RF and Top RF Pacemaker Shutters is the same.
Charles

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
t.r.sanford



Joined: 10 Nov 2003
Posts: 812
Location: East Coast (Long Island)

PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure that's right; the FP shutter works that way on my 2-1/4x3-1/4 "Pacemaker Speed."

I've wondered whether it would be possible to disengage the latch or pawl that holds the shutter open when it's set at "T" and tripped. If it went right past the O position to its final Closed attitude, it ought to be possible to synchronize medium-peak flashbulbs and electronic flash.

In the old days, a common modification to the "Graflex" reflex cameras with classic 24-speed shutters was to attach a contact to the mirror support and another to the underside of the frame surrounding the groundglass. At the suggestion of those older and wiser than myself, I did this with a used "Series B" RB camera while I was in college, and it worked fine. You'd open the curtain for a Time exposure, then bring the mirror down. When you pressed the release again, the mirror would swing up, the flash would fire and the curtain would close -- quite snappily, if you'd selected the highest tension setting.

Of course, this modification put a premium on developing a disciplined routine for inserting the flashbulb into its socket only AFTER you'd lowered the mirror!

Too bad something like that isn't possible with the press cameras.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Murray@uptowngallery.org



Joined: 03 Apr 2002
Posts: 164
Location: Holland MI

PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello:

I can see T and O and all that seems fine. The last motion from T to closed is a little anemic, but I'll worry about that later.

The slide switch on the side seems to have no effect - The shutter speed indicator will not 'stop' at the other speeds (30, 125, 500), but does for 50, 250, 1000.

I need to replace the bellows on the SG. Removing the CG bellows was relatively easy because there was no shutter!

I'm apprehensive about how much I have to remove to get to the rear clips that hold the SG bellows to the body...

This one is a candidate for cleaning/lubing the focus rails, etc, and maybe even a strip & refinish. Since the shutter is working now (well, 3 speeds anyway), I don't want to end up with a bag of parts!

I downloaded a sevice manual from SouthBristolViews...not sure my s/n matches etc but should be good for general stuff.

Thank you
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3233
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2004 2:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That service manual will cover 99.9% of your needs.
A pacemaker speed is the same as a crown with reguard to the rear bellows attachment.
Set FPS as if you were using the lens shutter and remove the clips, there just beyond the shutter!
Charles

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Murray@uptowngallery.org



Joined: 03 Apr 2002
Posts: 164
Location: Holland MI

PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, I don't understand the line about FPS. Could you clarify please?

The details on the online manual are hard to see well...they are not pixelated, but more like the spray pattern one sees on inkjet...I don't know if that's an artifact of how my computer prints pdf files (???) but they're good except for the very small ones.

The other thing that's difficult is the manual being written for someone who's done it before and knows what will happen. It pretty good about warning you about flying springs, etc, certainly better than any Japanese electronics service manual.

I think I am gathering that the switch to select the 'half speeds' is a retard lever...this term is a bit familiar from playing around with aerial camera shutters - they have something similar.

What remains to be seen is whether the retard lever has no effect because it needs lube, because a spring is broken, or who knows what else.

I'm torn between refinishing (since it has holes in the body and the top rangefinder was surgically removed, anyway, it needs some woodwork), and just getting it working and leaving well enough alone.

Murray
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Les



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 2682
Location: Detroit, MI

PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 1:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FPS ... Focal Plane shutter.

Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Graflex.org Forum Index -> Large Format Photography All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group