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sunpak/bipost synch

 
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sobahguy



Joined: 09 Oct 2001
Posts: 171
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2001 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



[ This Message was edited by: sobahguy on 2002-07-26 08:19 ]
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Henry



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1442
Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2001 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is your shutter a Graphex? You can obtain a "shop manual" from http://www.photobooksonline.com/books/manual03.html item no. 90026, "Graphic Graphex Shutters (1,2,3)" @ $15. I own three Graphex lens/shutters and two of them would not fire the flash when I first got them. With the help of the manual I was able to tear down the shutters just to the point where I could get into the synchronizer to clean and adjust the internal contacts. It's not a terribly difficult job if you're at all handy, and it sure is mighty satisfying when you get it all back together and fire off that flash! Of course, that's assuming that there aren't more serious problems like broken springs, bent parts, etc., which was not the case with my shutters.

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[ This Message was edited by: Henry on 2001-10-16 18:47 ]
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alecj



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 853
Location: Alabama

PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2001 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same problem with a Graphex shutter - no firing on X. Mine did fire on M. Try that just to see if ANY of the contacts are working. If so, then your X contacts inside the shutter may be bad. That was my problem. They were so screwed up I just use that lens now for flashbulbs.
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hmartin@tns.net



Joined: 04 Sep 2001
Posts: 83

PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2001 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
First, don't be too quick to blame your lens! Test fire your Sunpak 522 and make sure it's working. Next, even the best manufacturer can send out a bad synch cord. If you have an Ohm meter check it for continuity. Just try to eliminate each piece of equipment one by one. If your contacts are dull looking then they are oxidized and need to be polished. Least of all, remain calm and have patience. You're almost there.
Harry
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sobahguy



Joined: 09 Oct 2001
Posts: 171
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2001 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi all...the shutter reads rapax/wollensack from rochester,ny its a 135mm f4.7 lens. it doesn't expressly sax graphex but wasn't the wollensack lens basically a lens originally made for this camera? about this i'm not sure. anyway the camera does also have a solenoid attached to the front of the lens board. the fellow i spoke with @ paramount cords said it was basically better to have a bipost-tipped cord made rather than a solenoid-tipped cord. could the solenoid be a possible factor in the flash not firing? anyway thanks for the responses.
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Les



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 2682
Location: Detroit, MI

PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2001 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the Graphex and the Rapax are the same shutter with different labels.

The solenoid should not have any effect on the bipost contacts.

At first the solenoid was there to give flash sync to unsync'd shutters--you fired the camera and the flash from the red button on the battery case. Later, when sync'ed shutters like yours came around, photographers used the solenoid to just trip the shutter and let the shutter fire the flash.

I don't think you can do this with a Sunpak because of the current draw required by the solenoid.
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JoePhoto



Joined: 13 Oct 2001
Posts: 74
Location: New England

PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2001 2:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't have a meter you can hook the adapter to your strobe and short the 2 bi-post sockets with a pair of tweezers. If the strobe fires the cord should be OK. I have had problems with Paramount cords but if you send it back they should replace it for you.

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